Sculptures

The monument dedicated to Ava Gardner in Tossa de Mar stands at one of the best scenic lookouts in town. It was revealed to the public in August of 1998.

The beautiful sculpture of no less beautiful woman and an icon of the American cinema appeared in Tossa de Mar as a thank you to Ava Gardner for the fame she had brought to Tossa de Mar while filming Pandora and the Flying Dutchman here in 1950, turning it into one of the most famous and beloved resorts in the Costa Brava.

A rugged coastline, steep cliffs hiding cozy beaches, dense forests hanging above the sea are all distinct features of the Costa Brava, the principal Catalan coast. Sailing from Portugal to France, you would start seeing the typical Costa Brava landscapes right after leaving the port of Blanes behind. This spot is considered the southern portal to the Costa Brava.

This boundary exists unofficially, in conversations, books and guidebooks. Despite that, the Costa Brava brand is strong and has only gotten stronger in the last several decades, especially internationally, so the Blanes residents would likely consider it an insult if the public opinion suddenly shifted and the invisible border moved, say, more to the north.

Not that such a reverse would be possible after a monument shaped like an arch with a plaque “Portal de la Costa Brava” was installed on the city beach next to the rock Sa Palomera. The importance of this spot is reaffirmed every year during a whole week of fireworks shows in July—Sa Palomera is where the pyrotechnics participating in the international fireworks competition Focs de Blanes install their cannons to take part in the loudest and brightest summer event in the Costa Brava.

Out of four artworks by the Catalan sculptor Rosa Serra that stand today in Girona, three are dedicated to the subject of female beauty. Without a doubt, ever since Girona received her fantastic statue Tors de dona (The torso of a woman) in 1982, madam Serra has been scrupulous in inspecting her works from every possible angle.

If the sculpture in question was put up in a park, surrounded by hedges and planters somewhat restricting access from undesired angles, the public would likely not notice anything out of the ordinary. However, The Torso of a Woman now stands at the busy intersection of Bonastruc de Porta, Artillers and Figuerola streets, and the passersby walking along the latter would encounter a more unexpected, far from female, form.

Every guidebook for Girona that covers modern art these days makes a note of this, attaching photos that depict the statue from both angles — the obvious and the controversial one. To the credit of the artist herself, she neither denied the resemblance nor claimed that that was the artistic intent all along. A simple coincidence, that’s all.

Every self-respecting city or town has, or at least should, come up with a colourful ritual, the performance of which would allow the happy visitor to return to said city one day. These rituals around the world, for the most part, aren’t very original. Throwing a coin into a fountain or rubbing a part of a sculpture that acquires an alluring shine after years of human touch is often as far as it goes. Meanwhile, the Catalan town of Girona has approached the task more creatively.

The beast climbing a Romanesque column on the Plaça de Sant Feliu square is referred to as the Lioness (lleona), even though the sculptor conceived of it as a lion. It might simply be a boring stereotype at play, as the king of the animals does not run away from danger or climb a tree with fear written all over its face—panic only befits the fairer sex, or so the stereotype goes. In practice, every child knows that lionesses are the real warriors and bacon-bringing leaders in the lion pride!

The lioness monument in Girona has been known to historians since the 11th century, when it stood close to the inn Hostal de la Lleona (whichever came first, the sculpture or the inn’s name, is a typical chicken and egg problem). The ritual of kissing the most accessible (lowest) part of the animal, known as cul (“ass”) in Catalan, has at some point become a rite of passage both for locals and travellers passing through. Checking in for the night? Pay a visit to the Lioness. Getting ready for a long trip and worried about never coming back? Make assurances by kissing the Lioness.

There is a sign next to the popular spot that was put up by the municipal government, informing visitors that people have been kissing the Lioness’s ass for 800 years and no one has ever complained of the ritual not working. Of course, unsurprisingly enough, the statue standing on the square currently is a replica: the original sculpture was nearly kissed to death and was placed in the safety of a museum a good 30 years ago. Tourists have to contend with a copy, but it’s a nice one that also comes with a pair of steps for easier reach.

The saying el cul de la lleona (“the lioness’s ass”) has become an integral part of the city folklore with no particularly bad connotations. Don’t be surprised to encounter the phrase on a restaurant sign or in a dessert menu in Girona; order without worry!